Sunday, 13 March 2011

The Sun is going down!

The twenty four hour days are now behind us and the twenty four hour nights are fast approaching. It's all part of the Antarctic experience. Now that the sun is dipping below the horizon we're being presented with some pretty spectacular sunsets that bathe the sky and landscape in colours from pink through orange to silver

Absolutely beautiful.


James really captured the moment with these outstanding shots

(Photo: James Goby)

The Simpson platform's windows reflecting the sunset through the thin fog on to the snow (Original Photo: James Goby)

Brilliant photos, James.

Halley Winterer's 2011

Time to introduce the Halley V 2011 winterer's properly. The piccy's were all taken during the Winterer's Meal on the RRS Ernest Shackleton. Many thanks to the Captain, officers and crew who laid on a great evening and who made us feel most welcome.

Ben Mapston. Winter Base Commander

James Goby. Machine Operator

Paul Barwick. Electrician

Frank Jaffray. Generator Mechanic

Ian McNab. Field Assistant

Chris Walton. Chef.

Halley Ladies: Jenny Hine (Doctor) and Emma Philpot (Communications Manager)

Brett Walton. Vehicle Technician

Rory Fleet. Plumber

The team of professionals that will keep Halley V going until the next summer season (this November).

Catch Up 3: The Summer is Over

All things must come to an end and the Halley 2010/11 summer build season had wound down.  Although there was still some tasks to accomplish like tidying up the sites and readying them for their winter slumber the main bulk of the work had been completed. To celebrate the end of the season Field Assistant and documentary film maker Kirk Watson put together a 'Folk Night'. Although only recently resurrected by Kirk, Folk Night was an occasion at which the Halley staff would regale each other with song, poem, story or any other form of 'acceptable' entertainment. At Halley the occasion had fallen by the wayside many, many years ago but Kirk saw fit to get it going again just as he had resurrected it at Rothera, BAS's station on the Antarctic Peninsula. It is a time for everyone to let off a little steam, relax and consign the tensions and stress of the season to the place where all that kind of stuff belongs….in the past.

It was an absolute privilege to be asked to host this years event and I thank Kirk for the opportunity. The show opened with Richard and I performing a version of Carol King's take on 'Natural Woman' which was a kind of apology to all those lads in the audience who were used to having 'Met Babes' instead of 'Met Men' around. Kirk was kind enough to post our performance on YouTube.

The rest of the show included; poetry that reflected on the build season with the prose being, at times, a bit 'savage' though always insightful and comical, sketches of comedy and drama were performed and this years wintering Halley Doctor, Jenny, even managed to put the Folk into Folk Night by playing a couple of traditional tunes on her fiddle. The night finished with a collection of films by Kirk that detailed the best and worst of the season. Phil Moneypenny's filmic review of the Halley VI team doing their stuff was also a standout moment.

So with the Folk Night show over it meant that the show otherwise known as the Halley 2010/11 build season was finally over as well. Also, for the 2010 winterer's, it meant that their time at Halley was coming to an end.

With the Halley VI modules finally installed at their new home some 16 kilometres away towards the continent, the Morrison tradesmen were tidying up for the winter. The BAS staff busied themselves with mothballing the build machinery and winding down the summer buildings. The summer BAS staff and the 2010 winterer's then readied themselves for their journey home. There are two main routes out of Halley; by air or by sea. Most of the Morrison tradesmen who had already finished their tasks were placed on flights out of Halley which saw them basically retracing their steps back to South Africa (Basler DC-3 to Novo. Ilyushin from Novo to Cape Town).


Basler DC-3 arriving at Halley International Airport to pick up it's Morrison's cargo (Original Photo: James Goby)


BAS staff and the rest of the Morrison staff would be taken out on the RSS Ernest Shackleton with the last of the BAS staff going out on the RRS James Clark Ross.

Departing wintering chef, Anthony Dubber making his way to the RRS James Clark Ross

The Shackleton was the first ship to arrive (followed by the RRS James Clark Ross a few days later). The remaining waste which was to be transported to the Falkland Islands and other items to be shipped to Cambridge were loaded while last minute supplies for Halley V were unloaded. It's arrival also afforded an occasion that is something of a tradition on the Shackleton, the Winterer's Meal. Every year the Shackleton's Captain cordially invites that years winterer's to join him for an evening of food and socialising aboard his vessel. Again this was an opportunity for the 2011 winterer's to relax and enjoy each others company. Something that the busy summer schedule had not really allowed us to do more than once. The welcome afforded to us by the Captain, his officers and his crew was greatly appreciated by us all. It was a smashing evening and it's memory will remain with me.

The Captain, officers and crew of the RRS Ernest Shackleton made us feel very welcome 


These were emotional times for the previous years winterer's. After spending such a long time with their wintering pals strong bonds of friendship had formed. Some winterer's also form an attachment to the base itself. After all Halley V had been their home for nearly 18 months, their life support, their social life and the base itself will remain in their minds as an icon of their time in Antarctica. Whilst some of them may have been feeling a tinge of sadness about leaving their excitement regarding their trip home was tangible as the loved ones they had not seen for such a long time would be waiting for them.

The 2010 winterer's were an honest bunch and I for one greatly appreciated their candour. I was about to undertake my winter at Halley and their ability to tell it how it was and not just dress it up as something 'which is really great' or 'absolutely the most amazing thing in the world' was greatly appreciated. Knowing the highs and lows that are in store helped me to prepare for my journey through the Antarctic winter. A journey that I shall be sharing with my ten fellow winterer's. I shall continue to write this blog in that vein, detailing all the highs and the lows so that anyone considering a winter trip to Antarctica  knows exactly what to expect. Being something of an optimist I have found that in the past my 'glass half full' approach can sometimes blind me to the actual realities of the endeavours I undertake. So, again, I thank ALL of last years winterer's for all of their opinions and their advice.

So it was with great sadness that I wished Richard a final farewell. He is such a talented nae gifted lad. He has the world at his feet and the energy to make the future his very own. I wish him all the very best. I say 'Cheers, Aye!' to the outgoing Doctor, Mike Ramage. A man who lives just over one mile away from me in Glasgow but whom I have only just had the pleasure to meet in Antarctica. The sometimes crude but always entertaining banter I entered into with the 2010 wintering chef and all round 'cracking lad', Anthony Dubber could maybe have been a prelude to a lifelong friendship. Who knows? My respect for Tim Gee and Ed McGough knows no bounds and it's the quiet ones like Jack Parker and Matt Hooper that you've really got to watch ;-). Craig Brown was as pleasant a guy as you would ever want to meet and Ian Sisson's impending adventure touring his Honda C90 through Europe says more about the man than I ever could. Winter base commander Paddy Power kept them in line the best a true Irish man could and to my pal Mark Green I can only say, 'COOL BEANS!'

Saying farewell to Richard

I say a fond farewell to all the 2010 winterer's all of whom I would have liked to have known better. A few may return to Halley later this year but the majority I will probably never meet again.

I will however probably meet the summer staff next season (this November). Their trip south is an annual one so to them, Au Revoir!

There are now only eleven left at Halley V and this is now our Winter. Indeed, what follows is my Winter.

Halley Summer Build Season 2010/11

Catch Up 2: It's not all work, work, work

With the summer build season underway everyone was busy. The 2010 Halley winterer's were busy with their tasks and were handing over the reigns to the 2011 winterer's who were just flinging themselves into their tasks. For me, the science handover from Richard was ongoing as were the daily met tasks. For others like Brett the wintering vehicle mechanic the work volume was consistently high due to the amount of vehicles in action around the base which varied from little ski-do's to the mobile cranes that were required by the Halley VI project. Everyone was in the same boat and with everyone up to their eyes in it it gave no time for the new winterer's to spend some time together and to bond as a team.

2011 started with a couple of days at the seaside for this years Halley winterer's. We didn't go far, after all it was only a wee jaunt down to Creek 3 (about 10 kilometres away).

On our way to Creek 3: Ben, Brett, Jenny and Emma

Once there we were welcomed by some beautiful weather and some beautiful skies.

Crepuscular Rays bursting through the Stratocumulus clouds

The objectives were three fold: Learn some Antarctic field and camp craft from our top Field Assistant's, Ian McNab and Kirk Watson, bring the wintering team together for, what was essentially, the very first time and to have a nice wee break away from the madness at Halley V (a change is as good as a rest etc).

The trip was arranged to bring us up to speed on Antarctic survival equipment and techniques. Instruction was given on camping craft which included erecting the pyramid tents, assembling stoves and generally becoming better acquainted with the camping gear.

Setting up a pyramid tent as demonstrated by Kirk and Ian

The night ended with a barbecue Antarctic style followed by some tall tales and a bit of team bonding.

Jenny demonstrating what an Antarctic barby is really for

The following day was all about traversing the crevasse riddled Antarctic terrain with an introduction to the equipment and techniques utilised if a situation took a turn for the worse. Our field assistants, Ian and Kirk, are an experienced pair so the instruction was both concise and informative.

Traversing the ice. Crevasses are the biggest hidden danger. Luckily Ian can smell them

We will take the skills we learned on our trip to Creek 3 away with us on our winter trip and I am sure that we will take our burgeoning friendships with us well into the future.

With the expedition over it was time to head back to Halley V

Catch Up 1: The Halley VI Build Season

This summer season at Halley was the penultimate build season of the Haley VI project. There were over 100 people staying at Halley V during the summer period. All being fed watered and entertained. That's a strain on a base that was never designed to cater for that amount of bodies. The Laws platform is the primary facility at Halley V. The platform can accommodate around forty personnel and also contains the catering facilities, support services and their associated workshops, the communications hub, some office space and, of course, the bar. In addition to this space there is the Drewry Annexe that only operates during the summer season. The Drewry features accommodation space and catering facilities only. These two buildings were still not enough to cater for the numbers required for the Halley VI build so temporary containerised accommodation was implemented to take up the slack. 

The Drewry annexe being moved into place at the beginning of the season (Photo: Kirk Watson)

All these extra bodies were necessary as the 2010 / 2011 build season saw numerous skilled teams working on many different aspects of the Haley VI build. There was a team working across at the Halley VI site preparing it for the imminent arrival of it's modules. This team was also responsible for erecting the masts, arrays and cable catenary's that would be required for the science that will eventually be implemented at Halley VI. 

The Southern Hemisphere Auroral Radar Experiment (SHARE) array under construction at the Haley VI site (Photo: Unknown)

Teams of tradesmen were employed at the Halley VI construction site at Halley V to complete the modules exteriors and as much of their interiors as possible. Another major task to be completed this season was the implementation of the hydraulic systems that would enable the module legs to be jacked up and down to enable the raising of the new base as and when necessitated by snow accumulation.

The module legs can be extended and the modules raised as snow accumulates

Each module was then towed the 16 kilometres from it's construction site at Halley V to it's new home at the prepared Halley VI site. With the blue modules weighing in at a hefty eighty tons and the big red 'Module A' tipping the scales at a whopping two hundred tons this final phase presented arguably the biggest challenge to the project. Some individuals speculated that Module A would be the heaviest single item ever to be towed across Antarctica. Could something that big and heavy be supported by the snow and ice without it digging in to the very surface that it was travelling on? With the expertise of BAS and Morrisons construction on the job the task of moving the big red one the necessary 16 kilometres was achieved with apparent ease. The image of the monstrous Module A being moved is one that will stay with me for some time. 

Module A being moved from Halley V to it's new home at the Halley VI site

As the modules arrived at the Halley VI site they were arranged in their final configuration. The final arrangement and connection of the modules was one of the many Antarctic firsts that the project has had to contend with. It was conceptually and, obviously, conceivably possible but what would it actually take to join all these modules together and make a functioning Antarctic scientific base out of them? The Halley VI base, as a concept, has never been tried in Antarctica and it's realisation is a feather in the cap to all the individuals who have been involved with the project in whatever capacity. The completed configuration of Halley VI is definitely an impressive sight.

The assembled Halley VI base in the Antarctic evening light

Sunday, 2 January 2011

Things to do in Antarctica

Cycling?

You maybe thought you had seen it all.....

Maybe not such a good idea.

A belated Merry Christmas and the happiest of New Year's to one and all.

Big hugs and kisses to my wife Sharon and the wonderful children that she gave me; Katie Rose and Alec. Love you more than you could ever imagine.

Hubby / Dad xxxxxxxxooooooooxxxxxxxx

Halley V and Halley VI Relief 2010

The summer season at Halley is the busiest, most important time in the Halley V calendar. Whilst the science and maintenance activities continue all year round it is during the long 24 hour days of summer that the work necessary to sustain absolutely every endeavour throughout the winter is carried out.

Antarctica is a frozen desert that will not sustain land based life without external support. At the very least Halley V is dependant on food and fuel just to keep the base and personnel going. To keep the whole base and science in tip top shape other supplies are necessary e.g. tools, equipment spares, vehicles, gases. In fact, too many things to describe here.

To keep the base running an annual exercise called 'relief' is undertaken. A British Antarctic Survey research vessel docks at the sea ice just off of the Brunt Ice Shelf. The supplies are unloaded and transported to the base which is some 20km away. 

The RSS (Royal Research Ship) Ernest Shackleton departed from Immingham in the UK some months ago and travelled via Portsmouth and Cape Town to pick up more passengers and cargo. It was due to arrive at Halley in mid December but heavy sea ice provided difficult navigating conditions which eventually delayed the Shackleton's arrival at Halley until December the 25th. Aye, that's Christmas Day.

Heavy sea ice conditions have prevented the ship from reaching the Brunt Ice Shelf once before when, in 2002, the ship was unable to pass the Stancomb - Wills ice tongue.  It subsequently docked at the Drescher Inlet about 200 miles away where a partial relief was carried out by Twin Otter's flying the supplies from the ship to Halley V (thanks to Andy Smith at www.Zfids.org.uk for this information).


This type of supply line is limited and all but the heavier, awkwardly shaped items can be transported. Base supplies are stocked such that a base can survive by missing one relief. If Halley misses two reliefs then the base will probably have to be mothballed and restocked from scratch. The best option for getting all the supplies and materials in to Halley V in one go is by ship.

RSS Ernest Shackleton moored onto the sea ice at Creek 3

The RSS Ernest Shackleton arrived on Christmas afternoon and the first big job was to get the ship moored onto the sea ice at Creek 3. Sea ice can be very unstable and great attention was paid to Creek 3's condition prior to the Shackleton arriving. Heavy vehicles and cargo would be traversing the sea ice for many days so the sea ice at Creek 3 really had to be up to the job. Peoples lives depended on it and the Creek was rigorously inspected by the Field Assistant department over many weeks.

Creek 3 sea ice and the edge of the Brunt as seen from the Shackleton

To the left of this image is the ramp up to the Brunt Ice Shelf from the Creek 3 sea ice 

All the BAS staff at Halley V had a job to do. I was selected to work on the depot line and the fuel dumps. My love of drums would be further tested after the pleasures of raising the drum line to Windy Bay.

There were other teams. The teams on the ship took care of getting the cargo off the Shackleton whilst the Halley V sea ice team got the cargo to the top of the ramp onto the Brunt. A vehicle mechanic support team was based here as well to enable a quick response to any vehicle breakdowns that could seriously hamper progress. The vehicle operators working on the Brunt delivered the cargo to the Halley V supply line where it was logged then either parked or distributed immediately. It was a twenty four hour operation with two shifts splitting the day evenly between them. Once the cargo was delivered the Shackleton would then receive Halley V's outgoing cargo such as recyclable waste and items that were being returned to Cambridge depot for whatever reason.

And so the relief of Halley V began……..

I was working days from 7.30am to 7.30pm and the important task on the first full day was getting the food into it's appropriate storage. There was a lot of pallet work which took me back to my first job in the Safeway foodstore. The following night shift took care of the rest and when we took over from them the next day they had begun stacking the aviation fuel or Avtur into dumps. There were over 1200 drums of fuel being delivered with over 700 being dumped at Halley V and the rest being stored at the new Halley VI site.

The team assembled for fuel dump duties was Antarctic legends Richard Sands, Mike Ramage, Bryan Brock, Nigel Blenkharn and Big Al Geach.

From left to right: Richard, Nigel, Mike, Big Al and Bryan

Nige and Mike would be transferring the drums from the sledge to the dump.

Nigel and Mike unloading the drums

Big Al, Rich and myself would be stacking them. 

Big Al and Richard stacking the drums

And Bryan would be driving the machine.

Guess who's got the best job?

Nigel was living the dream and his goal was to break the 12 hour stacking record. Over 700 was the target on day two and we charged on with our mission. Delivery after delivery arrived with little pause between loads. This is a testament to the efficiency of the operation on the whole. By the end of day two we had stacked 726 drums of Avtur. The record had been broken. Nigel was happy and I was dead beat.

Dumps of Avtur

We repeated the task at the Halley VI site the next day where we managed to move over 500 drums. No mean feat considering that the Halley VI site was 16km further on from Creek 3.

One thing that really helped move the relief process along was the fantastic weather we enjoyed from start to finish. The Relief of Halley V was completed with the final load being delivered and loaded onto the Shackleton on New Years Eve. The RSS Ernest Shackleton arrived one week late but departed one day early. Christmas and New Year were essentially cancelled but the job got done. I've never see such dedication in people at a time of the year when they all should all be kicking back, relaxing and enjoying Christmas and New Year with their families.

My hat comes off to the entire  Halley V relief team and, for that matter, anyone else who finds themselves working in Antarctica over the festive period.

Shackleton Panorama 1


Shackleton Panorama 2